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LANVIN (M)

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A great admirer of art and an inveterate collector, Jeanne Lanvin had a true passion for colour. Thus, she opened her own dye factory dedicated to colour experimentation in 1923 (the label was founded by Jeanne Lanvin in 1899). Since then, the colour blue has become one of the brand’s symbols and is still very prevalent in Lanvin’s collections, accessories, and universe.
The brand’s new owner, the Chinese conglomerate Fosun International, and its new chief executive, Jean-Philippe Hecquet, named in 2019 their new creative director: Bruno Sialelli, a relative unknown from Loewe, the Spanish house, whose most recent job had been in men’s wear. He will be Lanvin’s fourth designer in four years.
Fosun owns the Italian men’s wear brand Caruso, the Austrian hosiery brand Wolford and the American knitwear company St. John, but it had never taken on a turnaround as high-profile as Lanvin. As the Chinese increasingly want to be not just consumers of luxury goods but owners of the brands themselves — with dreams of creating groups to rival the European behemoths Kering and LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton — how Fosun handles Lanvin will be a test case of whether they can compete.